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Matt Hart's Blog - Tales of Endurance

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Kokopelli Trail - 142 Mile Two Day Mountain Bike Adventure from Fruita, CO to Moab, UT


pre-ride babble

if you've ever done any research for endurance mountain biking routes you've likely come across the famed kokopelli trail. at 142 miles it travels south west from fruita, colorado to moab, utah on singletrack, country road and a bit of pavement.

although i've made at least two trips to moab per year for the last 6 years, riding this entire trail has somehow alluded me. last september i had even arrived and planned on running it self supported. but the foot injury that subsequently took me out for all of 2009 wasn't ok with that plan.

fast forward to the end of this winter. my buddy, the quintessential weekend warrior, steve copson and a coaching client, endurance mtb studd and friend dj brooks had both mentioned a fall trip to the mountain bike meca. dj and i quickly hatched our plan to ride the kokopelli trail in two days.

we drove from seattle to salt lake city and my second home in the sugarhood. mandy helped us prepare for our two day mountain bike epic, which made it possible to actually leave with enough time on monday to get everything done. the logistics weren't pretty, but we figured out a reasonable plan. we drove to moab booked a hotel room for wed night and dropped some apre gear in the bike storage at the archway hotel. we then drove to dewey bridge where the kokopelli trail crosses the highway on 128. it's also a good mid point at mile 77 of the kokopelli trail heading south. we hid our camping gear and a cooler of food in the bushes here. we then drove to fruita, colorado for a quick bite to eat, then sleep.


Day 1 - Loma, CO to Dewey Bridge (77 miles with 7,000 ft of gain)




we started day one a bit later than planned at 8:06am. we assumed around 9hrs of casual riding for the 77 miles with 7,000ft of gain. the northern trailhead of the kokopelli starts in loma, colorado a few miles from fruita. for the day one ride to dewey bridge i brought 11 hrs of food (around 200 cals per hour), 122oz of water and 1 tube of nuun for the trip. with just 122oz of water i knew i'd be risking a bit of dehydration but the weather looked cloudy and not super hot. i also figured with the trail crossing the river some 50 miles in i'd be able to replenish if it was looking like i made a mistake and was at risk. i made sure to super-hydrated before the start as well. which i would never do before a race, but we weren't racing so i figured i'd be ok... and it did in fact work out perfectly.

after the climb up mack ridge from the trailhead/parking lot on the dirt road off i70 the trail turns onto mary's loop which runs on a shelf above the colorado river. this section of kokopelli trail was so amazingly beautiful we were quite literally stopped in our tracks every few miles or so to take photos and video.






after some fun downhill singletrack the trail then drops down crosses the river and has a few hundred feet of hike a bike. from westwater to the cisco takeout dj and i got our paceline on, or as mandy calls it our "kokapellaton". the wind was intense, pedal down hill type of intense. it was kind of fun to have to work hard to pull us through the nasty wind.


as you can see in the video the ride down to mcgraw bottom was beautiful with the vibrant fall colors lighting our way as night started to descend upon us. after crossing highway 128 we both said "we've only got 8.2 miles to go today!". well after 69 miles that last 8.2 to dewey bridge seemed to take forever. the climb was pretty tough and there were sections of soft sand that caused our bikes to get super squirrely. it required more walking than we were willing to admit, fighting for every inch through the sand. although we had lights just in case, we luckily made it to our camping gear at dewey bridge without having to use them in 10hrs 40mins.

one of our water jugs had drained overnight, so we had to boil a bit of water to assure we had enough for coffee, and i suppose for food and hydration reasons as well... but mostly coffee. i was pretty excited to get another night in my black diamond lightsaber bivy (it's only 1lbs 10oz!). it was however a restless night with hours of intense wind. i had totally irrational nightmares of the colorado swelling and gobbling me up as i lay helplessly in my bivy.


Day 2 - Dewey Bridge to Moab, Utah (66 miles with 11,000ft of gain)

we headed out into a light rain on the second day at 8:34am. my lack of bike training mean my biggest issue was how saddle sore my butt was. having done a few adventure races and 24hr mtn bike races in my day it was a familiar feeling really, but one i don't appreciate. we call it 'monkey butt' and i think that about says it all.


as you can see from this elevation profile of the entire trail, our second day started out with a climb and didn't let up a whole lot. i worried a bit about our finish time and pace so i made an effort to keep us moving with minimal breaks. the climb out of cottonwood canyon was sandy and steep at times. this section was ranked difficult to very difficult and felt really remote. like we were the only ones on earth and we were miles and miles from comfort, safety and civilization. the final drop into the valley was a super steep road with loose baby head rocks that i walked most of. the reward however was rolling the flat road through the sage into fischer valley . fischer valley was amazing. dead flat for miles and then bam! sheer cliff walls. stunning.



from there we climbed up and out to beaver mesa, our first big climb of the day. the second was castle valley road to mason draw. i'll be honest here, the end of the kokopelli is uneventful. first there is no trailhead for a finish photo, it just sort of ends at the slickrock trail parking lot or in town moab. second the ride down and out sand flats road sucks. it sucks even more when you do it in the dark. once we hit moab it was once again back to our kokapellaton for one final hammer sesh to archway hotel and the sweet relief of getting off the saddle and taking off my nasty bike shorts.

i feel like kokopelli, the god of fertility, blessed us with a great adventure (and quite possibly super-fertility). the ride was amazingly beautiful and i feel so fortunate to be healthy enough to do such a trip. thank you dj brooks for the great company and adventure of a lifetime. also thank you mandy hosford for all your help getting us to the trailhead ready to ride 142 miles.


wanna ride the kokopelli trail?

check out my coaching services if you want to get ready to mountain bike or run the kokopelli trail. i'm also available as a personal guide for the trail. email me - Matt@CoachingEndurance.com


my gear for the kokopelli trail

bike: turner nitrous mtn bike
bike shoes: northwave aerlite S.B.S. bike shoe
helmet: rudy project helmet
shades: rudy project kalyos photochromic glasses
energy gels: clif shots
energy bars: mandy's homemade energy bars (link to recipe) & clif bars
electrolytes: orange ginger nuun
watch and GPS: suunto t6 w/gps pod to track distance and elevation
tent/bivy: black diamond lightsaber bivy
map: this is the only map i needed. the trail is very well marked.


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Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Kokopelli on the Mind

dirty winshield sunrise on i-70

"picture me rollin in a 500 benz". sorry 2pac, but i roll in a white vw eurovan (how did that happen?!). picture instead me driving west on i-70 peeling a hard boiled egg with a trash bag in my lap, watching the sunset in a dirty eurovan with the white stripes making my head bob out of control. that was me yesterday. i started in buena vista with the family price (pictured with a lego car in vail) and headed west. andrew and rachel - i simply can't thank you guys enough for helping a brotha out last week. you are great friends.

i was going to stop in leadville and enjoy a bit of oxygen deprivation, but the weather was supposed to be around freezing at night. i of course have a bad ass mountain hardwear phantom 0 degree bag, so i would have been fine. but honestly... i'm not ready for that yet. i need more summer, more hot. so i decided the fruita/moab area would be better with 87-90 degree weather.

i'm sitting in the aspen street coffee shop right now after sleeping by the boat ramp off exit 15, near the start of the kokopelli trail. for years i've been obsessed with riding and/or running the 142 miles of beautiful trail the fertility god has laid out. mtn biking it in under 24hrs is a solid effort. the record for running it was set in 2004 by peter bakwin and steph ehret at 32hrs 41min 41secs. even more impressive is the solo effort paul pomeroy threw down in 2002. he dropped 5 buckets with supplies along the route then ran it back in 37hrs 33mins. i'm intregued by this style, however i know how harsh the desert can be. a mistake or missing drop and you are in a world of hurt really fast.. more hot than you can swallow.


fruita to moab through desert = tasty. solo logistics and my overall energy level might stop me from getting it done, but at the very least i'll get some fertility trail time. my morton's nueroma also seems to be flaring up now that i've come to a stop.

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Monday, November 5, 2007

The Whole Enchilada - Moab, Utah

today we rode the whole enchilada. we started at warner campground instead of burros because of the snow level. this amazing ride starts at 9,450 feet in the la sal mountains southeast of moab. it connects hazard country trail, kokopeli, porcupine rim and drops you at the colorado by negro bills canyon a few miles out of moab. most people pay for a shuttle service to get to the top so they can just enjoy the ride down.. i am averse to two things, shuttles and ski lifts.

my ride today: 59 miles: 5,800 feet of amazing descent, 5,800 feet of tough ascent back up into the la sals to get the car.




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Sunday, November 4, 2007

Bartlett Wash Slickrock - Moab, Utah

things in moab are good.



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Saturday, November 3, 2007

Sovereign Singletrack - Moab, UT

day 1 of our adventure started in moab at one of my favorites. sovereign singletrack: 20.7 miles, 2200 feet of gain, good times, good (enough) abs.


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Friday, November 2, 2007

18 Hours Later...

steve and i drove the nuun van all the way from seattle to moab.. 18 hours of driving and one nap later we arrived. we're camping for the next couple of days right on the main drag in moab (rt 191)... i can't wait to ride!


honestly though i am a bit concerned with how my abs have been feeling. although the dr said "it's going to hurt for a while" i can't help but worry. i don't wanna "blow a mesh!". i've been riding and running super easy for 1 week now. yesterday was 3 weeks post-op. last weekend i did back to back easy 25 mile road rides and the abs hurt for two days after that. i have been to three yoga classes and just did the poses that felt ok. this past wed and thurs i put in my first hard efforts while teaching spin class. everything felt fine during class. but afterwards the right side was sore. then we started this long drive to moab and they never felt right the whole time.

i know i need to take it slow and i'm prepared to just doodle around town if things don't feel right. however we have some pretty awesome plans.. the biggest of which is the the whole enchilada, a 26 mile combination of trails that starts in the la sals and drops you 7,000 glorious vertical feet down into moab. but with steve just getting back on his bike and me on the mend we might leave that for last and start with a favorite of both of ours... the sovereign trail. oh boy...

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Thursday, November 1, 2007

Headed to Moab.. again!

i am frantically packing for an impromptu trip to moab! the weather looks perfect! stay tuned for mega-blogging of our adventures!

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